Monday, November 12, 2012

Italian Adventure 2012- Lake Garda, Italy

If you are looking for an amazing Italian experience, away from the crowds, but still with beautiful views, delicious food, and wonderful wine, look no further than Lake Garda.

Lake Garda is a large lake in the upper east of Italy, near Verona and Milan. Surrounding the lake are a myriad of towns, some along the shores, others high in the mountains.  Riva del Garda, Limone, Sirmione, Salo- all equally gorgeous, and all worth seeing.

Pieve di Tremosine

For our recent Italian vacation, we knew that we wanted to visit many different areas around the lake, and around the northeast of Italy. Thus, we picked our location not for the number of things to do in the area, but for the low price and the knowledge we would not be spending much time there.

We chose a self-catering apartment in the town of Pieve di Tremosine called Residence Terry. Pieve is a tiny town, that was all but completely closed due to the fact that we were visiting outside the tourist season. Dinner in the town gave you only the choice of one restaurant or a snack bar, but the food was good, and the views, phenomenal.

To get to Pieve, it takes a 20/30 minute drive up the mountain. If you drive from the north, the road is twisty, windy, shady, and eerie. The drive up form the south is just as twisty and windy, but breathtaking and awe-inspiring. We commented how the drive felt like we were in Lord of the Rings, looking for Rivendell (elf home).

Riva del Garda 


Riva del Garda is a small tourist town in the northern tip of the lake. The town is at lake level, which provides a great view into the Italian Alps surrounding it. Along the water are restaurants and souvenir shops, catering mainly to British and German tourists.

As it as the tip of the lake, this is one of the most easily accesible of the lake towns. Despite the rain and fog, the town was quite crowded when we visited, as well as every time we went through. 

If you were to visit Lake Garda with a family, I think Riva would be the best place to visit. While there is not much do there other than water sports and eat, there are plenty of streets to walk around, and the flat nature of the town gives off an aura of safety and comfort. 

Limone sul (del) Garda

Now to be completely honest, I am not entirely sure what the name of this town is. Half the signs say Limone del Garda, the other half (and Wikipedia) say Limone sul Garda. But no matter. Limone is a town smaller than Riva, but larger than Pieve. It is along the northwest side of the lake, and not the easiest place to get to (until the '30s, you could only get there by boat). The edge of the lake is all hotels and restaurants, and behind them and up the mountain are the shops and homes. While Riva seemed to be a year-round resort, Limone was almost completely closed for the winter.


 Interestingly enough, while Limone has an abundance of lemons and plays up the tourist angle of their name, the town was not named after lemons. The word comes from an old word meaning "border". Because of the lemon-Limone connection, though, this town is one of the most famous around Lake Garda now, and a huge summer tourist hotspot.

One unfortunate thing I missed out on in my trip was the infamous Italian hospitality. My man and some of his family had previously visited Limone, and could not speak more highly of the feeling of welcome they felt throughout the town. We went to the restaurant in the hotel they had stayed in years before, and when my man mentioned they had visited in the past, the family run staff was so excited and happy we returned. Visiting in October was nice for the lack of crowds, but I would suggest a visit in early spring, to really get the full experience.


Sirmione


Sirmione is probably the most popular tourist town around Lake Garda, and definitely the most expensive. Unlike most of the towns around the lake, this one requires a drive out into the countryside, and then back into the town (which means losing out on many lovely mountain views). The town itself mostly situated on a thin peninsula that sticks out into the southernmost point of the lake.

The reason this is the most popular town, other than it being the most southern (i.e. best weather), is because it has a castle.

 The Scaliger Castle was built in the 13th century. It is small (it's got nothing on Windsor!) but classic and pretty. Due to the bad weather and our out-of-season visit, the only things open in Sirmione were shops and cafes. The castle was locked up, the beaches blocked off. The area is quaint, but if you visit when the weather is foul it is not anywhere as near enjoyable as it should be.

We had originally wanted to stay in Sirmione, due to it's warmer climate and high class ambience. Looking back, I am glad we didn't! We would have missed out on so many lovely views and would definitely not have gotten our money's worth for the atmosphere, since everything was closed up.


If you are thinking of visiting..


I think the most important deciding factor for visiting Lake Garda is when you will go. Autumn or winter? Stay near one of the bigger towns, so you have more of the likelihood of things being open. Check out the places a little farther away, though, for cheap prices and hidden beauties. Expect thin crowds and few choices of restaurants, as well as excess heating fees. Perfect for people who don't mind the cold or wet, and are seeking complete relaxation.
Spring or summer? Stick with the big towns if you are looking for action and entertainment. Great time to take the kids on a boat around the lake, or try your hand at rock climbing. Staying in a small hotel or guesthouse provides the ideal Italian hospitality, but expect crowds and crazy German families. 


One thing is for sure- Lake Garda is a must see in an Italian vacation- truly a place that has been blessed with beauty.


Other blog posts about my Italian Vacation:
Overview
Verona
Milan

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